Trevor is very interested in the ‘Origins of Surfing’ debate!!! “I tell you Brah, my ancestors were gliding along on waves here five hundred million years ago” haha #justathought @thetorpedopeople #bodysurfers #fishjustwanttohavefun #dafin @dafinhi

Observations from the impact zone part two. I noticed a frustrating trend over this last swell – So many #surfers scrambling to avoid taking a wave on the head would paddle frantically towards the shoulder and straight into the path of the surfer up and riding the wave…apparently completely oblivious of the fact that they were putting themselves in a far more dangerous position than had they just taken the set on the head. This is my good friend Nathan on one of the better waves of a session last week at #sultans The board he is 1/1000 of a second away from running into didn’t need to be there, in fact ten seconds earlier it was in a perfectly safe position further in, but its owner paddled it straight into the worst position possible. The result was a ruined wave and a creased board (Nates!) I know that sometimes there’s nothing you can do and you end up in someone’s way, but I’m talking about us all trying to avoid the unnecessary ones, the times when you have the choice of ‘do I paddle in front of this guy or not? Do I risk injury to myself and him? My board and his? Do I ruin the wave he’s travelled so far to surf? Or do I stay here in the impact zone, enjoying the view, take a couple waves on the head and then paddle for the channel at the end of the set?’ #justathought #churbro #stink #playsafe #ridewithusdontcollidewithus #85mm